Holy Land: final day, reflection

Today is our final day here in the Holy Land. Before heading out, we will hold a simple worship service and time of sharing and reflection. I am looking forward to hearing the others' thoughts on the past couple weeks. We'll also see a few more sites and, I'm sure, eat more hummus, cucumbers, and tomatoes. 

Over the past couple days, there has been a good deal of unrest in Jerusalem and the West Bank. A Palestinian-American teenager was shot dead in the West Bank, and there were arrests made at the Al-Aqsa mosque. I know that this unrest and the injustice will continue after we leave; however, we know that the work of these peacemakers whom we have met will continue as well. Theirs is the difficult work of reconciliation, resistance, and sowing peace. It is slow and difficult, for they are up against a strong, oppressive force.

In regards to this long battle for justice, I keep coming back to something that Daoud (at Tent of Nations) said to us: "God says 'blessed are the peacemakers, not the peacetalkers.'" At first glance, that seems like a "duh" kind of statement, but I think that a lot of us (myself included) are guilty of talking about peace more than actually sowing it. And why not? It's way easier to sit around and criticize and just wish that things were different than to get our hands dirty and engage others in the work of reconciliation and understanding.

Working for peace is tough. I see that in the work that is done at Wi'am, Tent of Nations, Diyar, Mar Elias, and all those who are working to achieve a just peace in this place. They are like that "voice in the wilderness," speaking truth, planting seeds of peace, and refusing to hate. This issue has become personal, and I am honored to have met these amazing peacemakers. 

The Israeli-Palestinian conflict is a difficult issue to care about: those opposed to justice are loud and powerful, and I am often tempted to throw in the towel and to wish that I didn't know or care. But after seeing the long, difficult fight of our partners here-and, more importantly, their faith- I feel a renewed sense of purpose and drive to continue to advocate for them- to be a voice for them, to call out injustice, and to make peace, not just talk about it. 

I will, again, share a quote from my man, Shane Claiborne: 

"Even as we see the horror of death, may we be reminded that in the end, love wins. Mercy triumphs. Life is more powerful than death. And even those who have committed great violence can have the image of God come to life again within them as they hear the whisper of love. May the whisper of love grow louder than the thunder of violence. May we love loudly."

Holy Land: holy sites, Blood Brothers, & Syria

Greetings from Ibillin, Israel! We're here in the Galilee visiting the Mar Elias Educational Institution as well as various holy sites in the region. Just today we went to the Mount of the Beatitudes, Capernaum, and the Sea of Galilee. As with so many things on this trip, only photos will do justice to what I have seen here; however, in Capernaum, we saw Peter's mother's house as well as the foundation blocks of the synagogue in which Jesus taught. Staring at those stones, I was brought to tears.

Our first stop today was the destroyed Palestinian village of Biram, where Father Elias Chacour spent the first years of his life. (Father Chacour is the former Archbishop of the Melkite Catholic Church here, has been nominated numerous times for the Nobel Peace Prize, and his autobiography, Blood Brothers, is worth a read.) Like 300 other Palestinian villages, Biram was destroyed soon after the state of Israel was created. All that is left are the ruins of the homes, school, and church; the area is now a national park.

One of Abuna ("father") Chacour's friends was with us as well, and as they showed us around, I could not stop thinking about what a strange and tragic situation this is for them. Imagine it: your family has lived in this land practically forever, been followers of Jesus since He walked around here, and upon the creation of a new country on the land of your family, you are all forced to flee, while many of your compatriots are systematically murdered. That is exactly what happened in this land in 1948.

The Galilee, where we are right now, was not intended to become Israeli territory according to the UN partition plan, which divided up this region in 1948 for both an Israeli and a Palestinian state. It was, like a lot of other land, taken by force. And then in 1967, Israel took over the remainder of historic Palestine- Gaza and the West Bank, which it occupies to this day. There is another small piece (or not so small) to this story...

This afternoon, after spending time at the Sea of Galilee, we headed back towards Ibillin. Or so I thought. We drove west rather than east, and all of a sudden, the bus pulled over, and we were told that we were in Syria. No checkpoint. No passport control. Nothing. We simply crossed the Jordan River. "How can this be?" you may ask. Well, in 1967, Israel annexed the Golan Heights from Syria, and to this day, it maintains a military occupation there.

This whole situation is, in my mind, absurd. I feel sorrow for those wronged. And anger towards those who perpetrated these injustices (as well as those who continue to do so today). But Abuna Chacour said to me today "We must not hate." If a man who lost his home due to no fault of his own can say those words as he stands next to the ruins of that home, I too can choose to not hate.

It may sound cheesy, but my Palestinian Christian brothers and sisters are teaching me what it truly means to follow Jesus- to forgive, persevere, and love your enemy. 

Holy Land, Days 5 & 6- Bethlehem, Dead Sea, Jerusalem

Hello again from Bethlehem! Tonight is our last night here in the Holy Land Hotel (which I totally recommend, btw); tomorrow we head north to Ramallah and Ibillin.

Day 5

Yesterday morning our group attended church at Christmas Lutheran, where Rev. Dr. Mitri Raheb (of Diyar Consortium) serves. Since our group as well as a group from Germany was visiting, the service was trilingual. That is to say that Mitri spoke to all three groups in their native tongues. Many people here, especially in the Christian community, speak English, but this was above and beyond. And what a priceless experience to worship with fellow believers from all over the world in the very place where Jesus was born.

In the afternoon we visited Wadi Kelt canyon, which includes the road Jesus references in the Parable of the Good Samaritan. There is also an impressive monastery there that hugs the canyon wall. Allow me to make a blanket apology for not posting photos yet. I will do so when I get home although for now, I'm putting a few on Facebook and Instagram.

From Wadi Kelt we went to the Dead Sea. I was just a spectator, but my favorite part was looking out across the water to the mountainous coast of Jordan. A large portion of the Dead Sea is dry now because it has been diverted to water the Negev. It's quite depressing, to be honest.

Day 6

Today we spent in Jerusalem. Usama is not allowed to travel there, so our guide was a precious man named Bishara. Jerusalem is only about 5 miles from Bethlehem, but it took us awhile to get there, mostly because of the long line at the checkpoint leaving Bethlehem city.

We toured the Al Aqsa mosque, The Dome of the Rock, the pools at Bethesda, walked part of the Via Dolorosa, St. Anne's church, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Wailing Wall, the Mt. of Olives, and the Garden of Gethsemane. Needless to say, I took ten million photos. My favorite site was the Al Aqsa mosque; it is, without a doubt, one of the most beautiful, peaceful places I've ever been. It was difficult to think that it has been the site of such hatred and injustice.

This evening, a fellow pilgrim, Jim, shared his struggle with bitterness and hatred towards the perpetrators of injustice in this place. I really appreciate and admire his candor because I also struggle with these feelings. He spoke of his desire to "affirm the humanity" of the people whom he finds himself hating. It is always easier to hate and demonize when we see others as less than human, and for that reason, I think it would behoove all of us to make these words our daily prayer.

May Jesus teach us to affirm the humanity of all people as we work for peace. 

I'm looking forward to the next week as we continue to learn about and see this place. It is truly a privilege to bear witness to the ways the Holy Spirit is equipping and encouraging His people to bring the Kingdom to earth.

Holy Land. Day 4- Resistance is not futile.

Today was a full day. My feet are a bit sore, and I was quite tempted to head on to bed without blogging. But despite my fatigue, I want to share about this day because it was nothing short of inspiring.

We spent the morning in Hebron, where we visited the Ibrahim Mosque and Tomb of the Patriarchs as well as the offices of Christian Peacemaker Teams. The walk to CPT required a journey through the souk- the central market, which is a narrow, winding alley full of vendors. CPT works to support existing peacemaking efforts, provides accompaniment to ensure protection for Palestinians, and documents human rights abuses.

Gabriel, a CPT volunteer and our host, explained that Hebron is a "microcosm of the occupation," and he is exactly right. There is a military post or check point everywhere you look, and various settlements dot the cityscape. In fact, one settlement runs alongside the souk, and there is chain link fence to catch the trash that is thrown by settlers into the market.

Next to CPT's office is a military outpost- soldiers standing guard with machine guns, generally looking quite bored. I honestly cannot get beyond the absurdity of the situation: this foreign army in a land that international law states does not belong to them, ensuring the continued confiscation and destruction of property of the rightful owners and residents of this place. And impunity reigns.

This afternoon we visited Tent of Nations, which is an educational and environmental farm that operates on a Palestinian family farm that has been in operation since 1916. It is encircled by five large settlements that continue to grow, and the Nasser family is fighting an ongoing battle to maintain their land. In May of this year, the Israeli army at the behest of a group of settlers uprooted hundreds of apple, apricot, olive and fig trees there, but Daoud, the director and grandson of the original owner, and his family and team will replant. Israeli policy prohibits them from utilizing electricity, plumbing, or constructing, so they have made meeting rooms in caves, used solar power, and have compost toilets. This operation is incredible, and is a collaborative effort between Palestinians, Israelis, and internationals.

Shane Claiborne writes that "Christianity is at its best when it is peculiar, marginalized, and suffering," and these saints are proof of that. This place is a difficult one, but the suffering of these people has laid the ground for incredible faith. The road towards a just peace is long and arduous, requiring amazing endurance, patience, and faith that I envy. 

Holy Land, Day 3- Life as They Know It

Today's visits included Bethlehem Bible College, Diyar Consortium, and Dar Al-Kalima University College of Arts and Culture.

• BBC has campuses here in Bethlehem, Nazareth, and Gaza. (Palestinians' freedom of movement is extremely restricted, so having these three campuses allows for people from various parts of Palestine to study.) 
• Diyar Consortium is a Lutheran-based, ecumenically-oriented organization that fosters cultural and artistic expression, civic engagement, a printing house, and sports programs. - This afternoon we got to watch a girl's handball game. So cool! 
• Al-Kalima is a Palestinian university associated with the Evangelical Lutheran Church and has various arts degree programs. 

On our way back to the Holy Land Hotel this afternoon, we drove right by a demonstration- tires burning, kids throwing rocks, soldiers firing tear gas and spraying their skunk water, etc. Our bus stopped for a minute or so while trying to get through a nearby intersection, and opposite the demonstration was a wedding caravan. Usama simply said "Welcome to Palestine." 

That is just it. Despite the occupation and the unrest that it fuels, life goes on. Like people everywhere, these people want to live their lives- to be free, to be happy, to provide for their children, to play outside, and to celebrate when life calls for it. The situation here in the West Bank is tense: just yesterday, a 13 year old was killed by Israeli forces, bringing the Palestinian death toll here to 42 this year. And today, settlers stormed the Ibrahimi Mosque in Hebron, detaining the mosque guards. There are demonstrations all over the West Bank every day, in response to IDF actions in Gaza and Jerusalem. It is a dangerous situation.

I fully support the Palestinians' right to resistance and am impressed by their passion. Their anger is understandable, and they have the right to resist and struggle. In this place, anyone younger than 45 years old does not know life without this military occupation. But it is the people we have met over the past few days who are fighting the most difficult battle- choosing to stay, confronting injustice in creative, nonviolent ways, and bringing hope to this place. I'd like to think that if I was in their situation, that I would reject violence and follow in the way of Jesus. But I cannot know what I would do. 

I do know that these saints and their courage are what we should all strive for. 

Holy Land, Day 2

It's been a busy day. But a great one. We visited Wiam Palestinian Conflict Resolution/Transformation Center, Alrowwad Cultural and Theatre Society, Aida refugee camp, Manger Square, Church of the Nativity, Shepherds' Field, and met with Dalia Eshkenazi of "The Lemon Tree," which is an awesome (and true) double biography set here. I will elaborate and share about all of these as the trip progresses and the pieces come together, but for now I will share about the day's most impactful visits and sights: Aida and the separation wall.

Separation Wall

In my 7+ years of studying this conflict/region, I have seen countless photos of this wall. I have heard how it snakes in and out of the West Bank; cutting people off from their land, friends, and families; allowing Israel to expropriate land; and on and on. Despite my familiarity via photos, seeing it in real life was nothing short of surreal. It is huge. And an ever-present reminder of this belligerent occupation.

It is a wall of imprisonment.

However, our friends and partners show amazing patience and grace in its shadow. From this wall, the IDF just last week sprayed their infamous "skunk water" (Google it!) At the children on Wiam's playground. Yet they do not hate. Usama could not cross the check point with us today because he is Palestinian. Yet he does not hate.

Aida Refugee Camp

Aida is one of three refugee camps in and around Bethlehem city. It has about 5,000 residents, the majority of whom are under 18 and, therefore, do not know life elsewhere. These refugees represent over 30 Palestinian villages that were either destroyed or "cleansed" during Israel's war of independence (or the "Nakba" in Arabic, meaning "catastrophe) in 1948.

Aida stands in the shadow of a large Israeli settlement. Settlements are illegal under the Fourth Geneva Convention, yet there are approximately 750,000 Israeli settlers in the West Bank. Like the wall, the juxtaposition of these settlements, refugee camps, and the wall, is a harsh reminder of the enduring injustice in this place. Usama called these "the unholy trinity."

Aida is crowded, devoid of green space and trees. But it is a neighborhood, and people live their lives there. Our friends at Alrowwad provide a library and cultural center for Aida's residents. There are seeds of hope and change growing in the ugliest of places.

I have a lot to learn from these peacemakers. I hope that others will learn with me.

Holy Land, Day 1

Alright. We have arrived in the Holy Land. I would say "without a hitch," but Mom and I got detained for a minute at passport control at Ben-Gurion, likely due to her 2-year passport. Or just because the agents were on a power trip. Oh, well... just another taste of the injustice so many people experience on a far larger scale every day.

We will be spending the next six nights here in Bethlehem while we spend our days meeting with various Palestinian groups and individuals working for peace, as well as seeing the sites here and in Jerusalem. From here, we go to Ibillin, Israel. I will do my best to share about these visits as the next week and a half progresses. But for now, allow me to introduce my new friend, Usama...

Usama works with Wiam, a Palestinian conflict resolution center. (This predictive text won't allow me to type it correctly; there's an apostrophe in the middle.) He is a native Palestinian Christian and traces his family and their discipleship of Jesus to the 1st century. Literally the world's oldest Christian community.

He shared with us this evening that while there are a total of 4 million Palestinian Christians throughout the world, there are only 50,000 in the West Bank and Gaza. Let me drive that point home: only 50,000 Christians in the birthplace of and lands where Jesus walked, lived, and taught. They have, like all Palestinians, suffered immense persecution here, and I am grateful for the opportunity to meet and learn from them.

Usama did speak a bit this evening about the vast and profound need for counseling and mental health care among Palestinians, particularly in light of the most-recent assault on Gaza. Needless to say, his words struck me hard. Despite all of the difficulty surrounding him, I can see that this man has great faith and a desire to see justice done in this place. Praise Jesus for his witness, fervor, and faith! (And a shout-out to him for switching my Kindle 's keypad from Arabic so I could type left-to-right and write this post.)

The most impactful moment for me today was driving through the checkpoint as we crossed into Bethlehem. The separation wall (that I have read about and seen in so many pictures) is terribly sobering. It snakes in and out of the West Bank and is twice as high as the Berlin Wall. I have never been in a place where the oppression was so blatant, systematic, and out-in-the-open. It's a whole new ballgame, so to speak.

I anticipate the coming days to be challenging, joyful, educational, and difficult, so stay tuned!

(I can now say that I celebrated my birthday where Jesus was born!)